The concept and evolution of watches from the viewpoint of the operation system Buttons | Luxury watch magazine Chronos Japan version [webChronos]

Focusing on the parts and mechanisms for operating the clock (generally referred to as the operation system here), we will focus on the push button type operation system. There are many variations in the functions assigned to the push button type operation system, and we will follow the viewpoint from which the format is selected.

Shinichi Sato: Text by Shinichi Sato Article published on December 15, 2021 Photograph by Yu Mitamura

Some operation is required to operate the wristwatch. Last time, I focused on the crown, which is closely related to the winding of the main royal fern and the time display. As a result, it was found that multiple functions were integrated into one crown, and the shape and arrangement were improved according to the application.

What if you want to add more functions or functions that are frequently operated? Since the crown alone makes the operation complicated and limits the mechanism, a push-in button type operation system is often added.

Examples of functions often assigned to pushbuttons include chronograph operation, moon phase adjustment, and perpetual calendar adjustment. The chronograph is a feature that is likely to be used many times in a short period of time, such as lap time measurement. On the other hand, the moon phase and perpetual calendar do not need to be operated for a long time once they are adjusted to the correct display. Therefore, there is a large difference in the expected operation frequency, and we would like to pay attention to how this difference is related to the operation system.

On the other hand, digital watches such as G-SHOCK use switches that use electrical contacts, and one switch can be used to operate the stopwatch, which is frequently operated, and to adjust the time and day-date, which are infrequent. .. What makes this difference? This time, let's dig deeper into the operation system from this perspective and consider a smartwatch that is currently capable of the most versatile operations.

The royal arrangement of the "chronograph", which is synonymous with watches with buttons

The chronograph pusher comes to mind next to the crown as the operation system of a wristwatch. Many models equipped with a chronograph have a start / stop at 2 o'clock, a reset at 4 o'clock, and a crown at 3 o'clock. One of the most famous models is Omega's "Speedmaster".

Omega "Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer" Ref.310.30.42.50.01.002 Manual winding (Cal.3861). 26 stones. 21,600 vibrations / hour. Power reserve of about 50 hours. SS (diameter 42 mm, thickness 13.18 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 847,000 yen (tax included).

When operating the start / stop pusher at 2 o'clock, hold the 8 o'clock position with your thumb and pinch the head. At this time, pushers with different functions are arranged separately around the crown, so it is an advantage that it is easy to distinguish even by groping. In addition, it is easy to operate without the lugs and bracelets getting in the way during operation.

This arrangement has become the standard for current chronographs. However, rather than having a clear intention for many manufacturers to adopt this arrangement at present, there are many cases of adoption historically and many people are accustomed to it, and the design know-how of this arrangement has been accumulated. Isn't it because there are no major disadvantages and there is little need to change it? I believe.

A chronograph that places the operation system at the 12 o'clock position seen in the 1970s

Just as there are changes and trends in everything, there is a tendency in the operation system depending on the times. In the 1970s chronographs, there were several models with a crown at 12 o'clock and a pusher at 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock. This arrangement is often realized by rotating the movement assuming the previous Speedmaster arrangement by 90 degrees, and it is easy to use existing movements such as the ETA7750.

Examples of adopting this arrangement are Citizen's so-called "Tsuno Chrono" or "Chronograph Challenge Timer" and Jin's so-called "Bullhead Chronograph", both of which were reprinted in 2021.

Citizen "TSUNO CHRONO" 1973 release model revival. Upon reprint, the nickname "Tsunokuroko" became the official name. Quartz (monthly difference ± 20 seconds). SS case (diameter 38 mm, thickness 11.7 mm). Water resistant to 5 bar. 26,400 yen each (tax included).

To prevent the crown and pusher from interfering with the bracelet etc., Citizen's Tsuno Chrono has a structure to connect the bracelet at the bottom of the case, and Jin's R500 has a thick case and tilts the dial, that is, the movement so that the 12 o'clock side rises. It is a feature that it is made to do.

Let's infer the intent and merits of this "bullhead" arrangement. Jin's R500 has a motorsport theme. Power steering was not common in cars at that time, tire performance was low, and if you were going to run sports, the steering wheel would have run wild. Then, he could not afford to operate the chronograph gracefully and could not take his hand off the steering.

Gin "R500" self-winding (Cal.ETA7750). 25 stones. 28,800 vibrations / hour. Power reserve of about 46 hours. Ti (diameter 42 mm, thickness 16 mm on the 12 o'clock side, thickness 13 mm on the 6 o'clock side). Water resistant to 20 bar. Limited to 300 pieces. 770,000 yen (tax included).

At this time, assuming that the pusher is placed at the 1-11 o'clock position, if you cover the wrist of the left hand holding the handle so that it is supported by the palm of your right hand, the index finger and ring finger of your right hand will naturally be attached to the pusher. Become. At this time, the watch can be supported on the surface with the "palm bottom" in martial arts, and it is stable. Therefore, it can be considered that the arrangement makes it easy to operate the chronograph without disturbing the driving, and the author evaluates it as a minor but rational arrangement considering the usage.